The Erawan Caves:
I’ve been in the very pleasant town of Udon Thani for 5 days now, it’s a good place to chill for a while, about 100 Km’s out of town back towards the town of Loei ( I cannot get the pronunciation of that one at all) according to my map are the Erawan Caves. Because of the name check with the B&B I thought they have to be worth a visit. My problem has been the rainy season seems to be lingering on way to long; it should have finished at the end of June , we are well in to August we are still getting some serious rainfall once or twice a day. This morning the weather looked a bit more promising so I decided today was the day I was to do the caves. Needless to say 15 km’s out of Udon, the heavens opened. I did bring may waterproofs with me and the rains didn’t last long, but rain and motorbikes are never good bedfellow. I wasn’t too sure what to expect from the caves, two nights ago I met some Thai people who made much ado about the 610 steps required to get to the cave entrance and the need to be fit and have a strong heart. Could be a bit of a hike but I reckon I was up to it.
The site of the cave is really quite striking and can be spotted from some distance away, it consists of a series of very steep hills jutting out from a fairly flat countryside, the largest of which has the Erawan Caves which bore right through the hill from one side to the other. Visually the nearest comparison I can think of is Hanging Rock in Victoria, but much higher by quite a way.
The entrance is clearly marked from the highway even though they had changed the spelling to Arawan. It appeared to be a small monastery surrounded by a few stalls selling food, drinks and tasteless tat. It wasn’t very busy, apart from the monks, the stall holders there was only one other vehicle in the car park, an oldish gentleman from Darwin who had a Thai wife who was clearly too young for him and a family that filled a Toyota Hilux, they were just leaving but he did say if I was going to the cave that I should be prepared for quite a hike.
I packed my jacket and helmet into the bike and grabbed my camera, I had my trainers on which I reckoned were the way to go and I decided that the purchase of a bottle of water would be a smart move. After the purchase I made my way to the steps which climbed up to the mouth of the cave about half way up the hill (mountain). As far as I could figure there is no actual fee to enter but you are encouraged to make a donation, I put 100BHT (about AUD$3.50) and the lady at the entrance seemed happy with that. As far as I could make out I was the only visitor so it was going to be a long lonely climb. The first 200 or so steps go straight up from the entrance and then takes a sharp left along a slightly inclined walkway. Another sharp turn and another flight of steps. 610 steps normally shouldn’t be a problem, I wouldn’t say I was super fit but 610 steps shouldn’t be a problem in normal circumstances but add the heat and humidity into the equation and I was starting to puff and pant by the time got to the first rest stop. I wasn’t feeling too bad so I carried on. The steps got steeper and twisted around the rock formations. I was glad to reach the second stop as I was breathing very heavily and my heart rate had shot up. I took a swig of water now realising it was an inspired purchase. I had a break for about 5 minutes to catch my breath and then on with the final leg.
The entrance to the cave is huge, we are talking double decker buses (numerous) and it is dominated by a huge statute of Buddha in the lotus position. Like many of the Buddhist places in Thailand the blend between a place of religious practice and tourist attraction is blurred (the same could be said for the world’s great cathedrals). What was clear however is the standards applied for visitor safety are not as strictly adhered to in Thailand as they are in the west. I descended into the cave over what is very uneven and rocky ground which sloped downwards. There are lights guiding you through once you leave daylight, the ubiquitous 1 meter long white fluro tube which seems to be the weapon of choice across Thailand and can be hung at every conceivable angle apart from horizontal. The central cavern is enormous and there was the odd squeak of bat flying around above me. I have been to Buchan caves in Victoria’s East which has more stalactites and stalagmites formations so is very pretty but the for sheer size Erawan is awe inspiring. Also I the fact I was there on my own in this vast cavern, I really did feel like Arni Scahnesum.
The floor started to incline towards the far exit; I could just see a glimmer of sunlight in the distance and unfortunately the level of lighting drops dramatically. This part was very dangerous as the ground was both uneven and wet and impossible to see, it would have been easy to slip and break or twist and ankle and god knows how long I would be lying there before I was found. I was very glad that I had Eddie in the car park so even the vaguest mind would be able to eventually put 2 and 2 together. Anyway the only thing for was to grope my way across the floor, and testing every step thoroughly, still clutching my trusty bottle of water. Slow progress for about 50 meters and the sunlight light intensifies and lights up the way through a succession of large boulders. To get to the exit there is another set of about 75 concrete steps which seemed to be the latest incarnation of egress built on top what look like a very dodgy wooden step ladder and even more dangerous looking wooden steps. Once you get to the exit there is a stupendous view of the countryside from the other side of the mountain but little else, A safety barrier stops you from attempting the suicidal decent of the rock face.
I sat and pondered the universe for a while whilst I caught my breath and in some way quite pleased that I was blocked from doing any exploring as I was about out of water and I reckoned I had my fill of steps and rocky floors for the day, so I contemplated the trek back. OK the 610 steps would now be going downwards but there was the dodgy traverse back through the cave to negotiate. I was sweating profusely, the caves are cooler than the daylight but the humidity was very high, so I finished that last of the water, by the time I had returned to the original entrance.
The trek back was easier; I had a good idea of where the major obstacles were so I was reunited with Eddie only about half an hour later. I was pretty exhausted and in need of a shower and a change of clothes but I was so glad that I’d made the effort. The incentive in the first place had just been because of the name link with Erawan B&B, but it is the unknown little gems you find almost by accident that are the most rewarding.
I’ve been in the very pleasant town of Udon Thani for 5 days now, it’s a good place to chill for a while, about 100 Km’s out of town back towards the town of Loei ( I cannot get the pronunciation of that one at all) according to my map are the Erawan Caves. Because of the name check with the B&B I thought they have to be worth a visit. My problem has been the rainy season seems to be lingering on way to long; it should have finished at the end of June , we are well in to August we are still getting some serious rainfall once or twice a day. This morning the weather looked a bit more promising so I decided today was the day I was to do the caves. Needless to say 15 km’s out of Udon, the heavens opened. I did bring may waterproofs with me and the rains didn’t last long, but rain and motorbikes are never good bedfellow. I wasn’t too sure what to expect from the caves, two nights ago I met some Thai people who made much ado about the 610 steps required to get to the cave entrance and the need to be fit and have a strong heart. Could be a bit of a hike but I reckon I was up to it.
The site of the cave is really quite striking and can be spotted from some distance away, it consists of a series of very steep hills jutting out from a fairly flat countryside, the largest of which has the Erawan Caves which bore right through the hill from one side to the other. Visually the nearest comparison I can think of is Hanging Rock in Victoria, but much higher by quite a way.
The entrance is clearly marked from the highway even though they had changed the spelling to Arawan. It appeared to be a small monastery surrounded by a few stalls selling food, drinks and tasteless tat. It wasn’t very busy, apart from the monks, the stall holders there was only one other vehicle in the car park, an oldish gentleman from Darwin who had a Thai wife who was clearly too young for him and a family that filled a Toyota Hilux, they were just leaving but he did say if I was going to the cave that I should be prepared for quite a hike.
I packed my jacket and helmet into the bike and grabbed my camera, I had my trainers on which I reckoned were the way to go and I decided that the purchase of a bottle of water would be a smart move. After the purchase I made my way to the steps which climbed up to the mouth of the cave about half way up the hill (mountain). As far as I could figure there is no actual fee to enter but you are encouraged to make a donation, I put 100BHT (about AUD$3.50) and the lady at the entrance seemed happy with that. As far as I could make out I was the only visitor so it was going to be a long lonely climb. The first 200 or so steps go straight up from the entrance and then takes a sharp left along a slightly inclined walkway. Another sharp turn and another flight of steps. 610 steps normally shouldn’t be a problem, I wouldn’t say I was super fit but 610 steps shouldn’t be a problem in normal circumstances but add the heat and humidity into the equation and I was starting to puff and pant by the time got to the first rest stop. I wasn’t feeling too bad so I carried on. The steps got steeper and twisted around the rock formations. I was glad to reach the second stop as I was breathing very heavily and my heart rate had shot up. I took a swig of water now realising it was an inspired purchase. I had a break for about 5 minutes to catch my breath and then on with the final leg.
The entrance to the cave is huge, we are talking double decker buses (numerous) and it is dominated by a huge statute of Buddha in the lotus position. Like many of the Buddhist places in Thailand the blend between a place of religious practice and tourist attraction is blurred (the same could be said for the world’s great cathedrals). What was clear however is the standards applied for visitor safety are not as strictly adhered to in Thailand as they are in the west. I descended into the cave over what is very uneven and rocky ground which sloped downwards. There are lights guiding you through once you leave daylight, the ubiquitous 1 meter long white fluro tube which seems to be the weapon of choice across Thailand and can be hung at every conceivable angle apart from horizontal. The central cavern is enormous and there was the odd squeak of bat flying around above me. I have been to Buchan caves in Victoria’s East which has more stalactites and stalagmites formations so is very pretty but the for sheer size Erawan is awe inspiring. Also I the fact I was there on my own in this vast cavern, I really did feel like Arni Scahnesum.
The floor started to incline towards the far exit; I could just see a glimmer of sunlight in the distance and unfortunately the level of lighting drops dramatically. This part was very dangerous as the ground was both uneven and wet and impossible to see, it would have been easy to slip and break or twist and ankle and god knows how long I would be lying there before I was found. I was very glad that I had Eddie in the car park so even the vaguest mind would be able to eventually put 2 and 2 together. Anyway the only thing for was to grope my way across the floor, and testing every step thoroughly, still clutching my trusty bottle of water. Slow progress for about 50 meters and the sunlight light intensifies and lights up the way through a succession of large boulders. To get to the exit there is another set of about 75 concrete steps which seemed to be the latest incarnation of egress built on top what look like a very dodgy wooden step ladder and even more dangerous looking wooden steps. Once you get to the exit there is a stupendous view of the countryside from the other side of the mountain but little else, A safety barrier stops you from attempting the suicidal decent of the rock face.
I sat and pondered the universe for a while whilst I caught my breath and in some way quite pleased that I was blocked from doing any exploring as I was about out of water and I reckoned I had my fill of steps and rocky floors for the day, so I contemplated the trek back. OK the 610 steps would now be going downwards but there was the dodgy traverse back through the cave to negotiate. I was sweating profusely, the caves are cooler than the daylight but the humidity was very high, so I finished that last of the water, by the time I had returned to the original entrance.
The trek back was easier; I had a good idea of where the major obstacles were so I was reunited with Eddie only about half an hour later. I was pretty exhausted and in need of a shower and a change of clothes but I was so glad that I’d made the effort. The incentive in the first place had just been because of the name link with Erawan B&B, but it is the unknown little gems you find almost by accident that are the most rewarding.
1 comment:
That sounded fantastic - it;s the little gems along the way that make travelling so wonderful. Keep upright! Beki
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